Technology
Podcast #187: Training Faster Behaviors Without Frustration, Part 2
In this episode, Hannah Brandigan continues her exploration of training faster behaviors without frustration, focusing on optimizing techniques for both dogs and trainers. She emphasizes the importanc...
Podcast #187: Training Faster Behaviors Without Frustration, Part 2
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Interactive Transcript
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The other thing that I would like to do here with that starting position is I'll lure the dog
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so that his weight is shifted way to one side and when I let go and he starts to readjust his
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feet to just to stand more normally the pot targets right there and he can't help a step on it.
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That's your latency. That's one of my favorite tricks to build a quick behavior from the very
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beginning and then we can increment distance from there.
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Hey there fellow training nerds. You're listening to Drinking from the toilet. If you like to geek out
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about combining the science of behavior with positive reinforcement philosophy in real life,
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you've come to the right place. I'm your host Hannah Brandigan, teacher trainer,
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podcaster and author of the book Awesome Obedience and it's companion awesome obedience the
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field guide, which are both available from clicker training.com. I'm also the founder of Zero to CD,
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which is an online program and the only totally integrated program to get you competition ready
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using positive reinforcement methods. And if you're interested in that kind of thing, you might
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also be interested in knowing that I will be running another 21 day challenge, similar,
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but not identical to the one that I did around this time last year. This will be 21 days of exercises
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focused on building awesome or healing. So tighter position, both more accurate and more precise,
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as well as enthusiastic and there'll be some other tips and tricks and things like that. Lots of
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opportunities to get your questions answered. So if you're interested in that, we'll be starting that
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up in September. Still working on nailing down all the details, including lining up some cool
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prizes that you can win for participating. I'll be more information coming out shortly,
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both through email and social media. So if you're not already on my email list, you can
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jump over to my website and sign up there and also keep an eye out on social media. So Facebook and
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Instagram, those are usually the best places to find me. I look forward to challenging you.
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Okay, so this episode is part two of a two part series so far, where we are talking about getting
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faster behaviors and training without leveraging frustration. So if you haven't listened to part one,
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of course, go back and listen to part one because that's going to lay some context. And I'm very
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specifically looking at all the ways that we can increase speed that are totally separate from
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anything that we would put in the category of drive. So I'm thinking about all of the dogs that we
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might otherwise label as medium or low drive. And we would still like to optimize some behaviors,
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improve speed, decrease latency, and do it without damaging your relationship or making yourself
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crazy in the process. Okay, so where do we leave off? So last time we were talking about selecting for
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conditions that specifically make getting faster behavior easier to happen. So looking around
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at your dog's life, where they already moving faster in general, if not with this behavior
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specifically, we talked about some of the things to keep in mind or to look for when you're
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digging along those lines. We also talked about your dog's technique, the mechanics of specifically
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how they do the behavior. What movement do they make and what things could we do with training to
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train for a more efficient technique and also to shape for faster responses within that technique.
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And now I want to focus in on the human mechanics, how the human is moving when, well, and where.
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So the wind way and how of the traitors side of things because we own that whole half of the
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training loop, right? That's as Emily and Eva say, that's our dance space. So what are things that
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we can do there other than making ourselves really sweaty and exciting and being as interesting as
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possible and all that stuff that we might do in the name of being more motivating, increasing the
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dog's motivation. Because that's not what we're focused on here. There's a lot of other roles that
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we have or a lot of other elements that we are involved in. So I did want to start by talking a little
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bit about the reinforcement process, not in a drive building way, right? Like not in, oh, you should
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throw food instead of handling food although maybe you might want to do that. That's not the angle
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that I'm looking at here. So if you remember back to the beginning of the last episode, one of the
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things that we talked about was how all things being equal, the system is going to trend towards
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faster, more direct responses, more direct access to the reinforcement. We can actually use that same
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idea, but take some control over it, right? We can actually harness that. And so one of the things
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that I think about when I'm trying to build faster behaviors is what can I do with my reinforcement
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strategy to reduce or eliminate any delay to reinforcement access. So the longer it's going to take to
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get access to the reinforcement that you're using, the longer it takes the dog to get to the treat.
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Are you having to walk out to the dog and hand them the treat or do they have to run a long way
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to get it? Or is it in a ziplock bag stuffed in your pocket and you have to fish it out of your
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pocket and open the bag and get out one of the treats? Anything that is a delay is not going to lend
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itself to faster behaviors. Now, not every delay in access to reinforcement is bad. It does depend on
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the outcome that you're looking for. If you are looking for more chill responses, then one of the
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things that you might do is draw out the reinforcement delivery process. But if you're looking for
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really sharp, snappy responses, you're going to want to look at really snappy, zero delay,
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reinforcement access. Make the behavior that your dog is already doing very much the straight line.
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Make as simple as possible. Make it very efficient. That's going to help harness that already
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existing efficiency trend and help you get faster behaviors going. Again, without doing much else.
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Now, kind of in that same category, one of the things that I'll do is I really focus on having
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really crisp mechanics. I want really rapid fire responses. I want a very sprinty performance. I'm
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going to want to have really crisp, crispy, really crisp mechanics with high contrast, but that are
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very, very clear. When I'm talking about mechanics, I mean everything from what you're doing with
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your body during the, when you give the cue, if there's a cue involved and also during the behavior
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and also what your job is during the reinforcement process. How you move your body as you're
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getting the treat out and handing it to the dog. Or if one of the ways that you're using,
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or one strategy that you're using to reduce any delay to accessing the reinforcer is you're
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keeping a handful of treats that you can deliver when treated at a time, but you're pre-loaded
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in your hands, you're not having to go back to treat pouch at all. That's a really good way to
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reduce the amount of time that elapses between when you mark when the dog completes criteria and
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when he actually gets the tongue touches the treat if they're pre-loaded in your hand. But if you
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have treats pre-loaded in your hand, it can be very easy to get fuzzy about when the treat is being
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delivered and when it's not, especially if you're also queuing with your hand. Or there's some
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other, you're trying to manage a target. So there are some trade-offs here. I do, when I'm shaping
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behaviors that I want fast, I do very often pre-load a bunch of treats in my hand so that I can
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really rapid fire deliver for rapid fire behaviors. But I have to be really conscious about what I'm
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doing with that treat hand during the behavior, during the queue and during the behavior. Of course,
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one of the other trade-offs of having treats in your hand is a treat in your hand could become
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part of the queue. And will, if you don't take other steps. But that definitely is something you're
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going to want to include in your training plan. But we can talk about getting treats out of your
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hand in a different episode if you care. If that's something you're interested in hearing me talk
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about, you can let me know about that. Okay. But making it very, very clear when the food is being
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delivered, making the path that the treat is taking so your dog knows where to expect it to appear
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in space and they can get there really quickly. That's really going to be to your advantage.
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So your movements have no hesitation. They are very, they're smooth. Again, they're very crisp.
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The movement of your body is a big part of what tells your dog when the reinforcement is available
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and how to get it, like how to get there. So, right, you know, if you're tossing a treat, if that's
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part of what you're doing, your dog is watching your hand move to get the information that they need
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to then have a guess of where the treat is going to land. They're not, they can't watch the
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nobody can. All right. Just don't work like that. Maybe, maybe birds. I don't know. I'm looking for
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that consistent sea in motion. It doesn't always mean that you're delivering the treat in exactly
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the same way because we need some flexibility within that treat delivery strategy to have, you know,
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very small, like the small effects, like there's new wants. That's what I'm saying. I'm saying there's
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new ones here. But crisp, smooth without hesitation, without fuzziness or if you're noticing fuzziness in
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your dog's behavior, like your dog maybe can't tell, should I be following the treat? And I should
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be offering behavior. That's a good sign that we need to do something different. So like one of the
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things that I do, and this is something that we do, we do this in zero to CD, but I also do with
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my own dogs, is I make it very, very clear that if I'm lowering my dog, the treat is in contact with
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his nose. That's partly my job and partly a trained behavior. And then, and I'm holding the treat so
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it's fairly exposed in my fingers. You can't see the one I'm doing with my hands. But if the dog
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should be offering, I close my fingers so that the treat is not accessible. I freeze my hand
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and my knuckles are more towards the dog. The treat's not facing the dog and there's no contact.
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So that's one way that I make it very, very clear when the food is being delivered and when the
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dog should offer the behavior. And since they're really clear on that, they don't waste any time
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hesitating on their part of, oh, was she about, oh, was she about to give me, oh, no, oh, maybe I should
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should I sit? What? Okay. Right. So we don't waste any time in that hesitation. They're like,
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oh, it's my turn. Now I go. It's a really nice clean, sharp session, which tends to be
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conditions under which we see fast behaviors emerge. So same basic idea, category, also consistent
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timing of the marker queue. And again, consistent initiation of that reinforcement. When I'm working
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with teams, or actually, no, this isn't even, this isn't even like a, oh, I'm a professional
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dog trainer. I want to work with my own dogs. One of the top reasons that I see slow behavior
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is, is coming from an unsure dog. It's coming from a dog that is not confident what behaviors
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earning the reinforcement, how to do that behavior or where the reinforcement is coming from.
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And again, those things, even the absence of anything aversive, are going to tend to make a
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dog that's a little bit, a little bit careful. Like, now I like to anthropomorphize and give voices
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for my dogs. And also your dogs, when I'm watching your dogs on video, or in person, I'm making voices
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for them and you should know that about me. Feel free to unfollow if that's not something you're comfortable
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with. So I am making voices for your dogs and for my dogs. And so one of the things that dogs will
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say, and I will watch them do it, you'll see them, they're looking at their person and they're
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looking at the source of reinforcement and maybe the tree pouch, the tree hand, and you'll see them
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make a little movement and they're asking with their eyes, is it this? Am I doing it right?
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And so they're doing this little question mark behavior. Now the key, the trick, the magic is,
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we can capture that and reward it. And when we capture that first little like, could it be this?
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And I reward that then often I get the rest of the behavior, which is so cool. And I just think
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that's really fun. So you know, see also previous episode where my recommendation is reinforce
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even the slow responses with holding reinforcement is not usually your best your best choice here.
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So if you're seeing slow behavior, a really good thing to look at after you've eliminated like,
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is the dog hot? Is the ground to slippery is, is my dog sure? And or is my dog unsure? Because my
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timing is maybe not super clear. And this can be separate from rate of reinforcement, right? Like,
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delivering a high volume of food during a session is not the same thing as being clear. And a high
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volume of food with no clear pattern or contingency can result in just as frustrated of a dog as a
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session where there is too low a rate of reinforcement. There's not enough food being delivered. So
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the contingency is the most important part here that that it's clear what you need to do to
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access the reinforcement. That's where you're going to get confident and you're going to see faster
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behaviors as a result. All right. Now in terms of criteria, let's actually this is part criterion
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part structure. Another thing to do is remove any requirement for duration, especially if the
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behavior is stationary. So talking about reducing any delay to accessing reinforcement, that's
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sort of like duration of like the reinforcement process. At least definitely eliminating the duration
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between the click and like the contact with the treat or the click in the expectation. So the
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the more we can reduce that, but also reducing any requirement for duration during the behavior
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portion of the loop. So in general duration and speed or duration and latency tend to be sort of
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inversely proportionate in that. Logger duration behaviors tend to be performed more slowly if
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you're running a marathon versus you're running not a marathon. You're going to run marathons.
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You're going to run a marathon a lot more slowly than you would run to the bathroom from here.
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Like if you're in your house and so is the bathroom because you have indoor plumbing. I do and
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probably a lot of people do. But maybe not everybody. I don't want to be insensitive. But yeah, like
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longer distance like the longer the duration of the behavior, the slower you're going to get started.
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That's that sort of delayed start phenomenon. And also the slower you're going to do the thing
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because what's the advantage to rushing if you're just going to stand around hurry up and wait,
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right? So dogs too. So if we can remove any requirement for duration, let's say that you want to
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work on a faster retrieve. So you want your dog to run out to the dumbbell pick it up, race back.
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You're going to want to take away any requirement for the hold for that behavior. So the dog leaves you,
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picks up the object, the dumbbell comes back. Now normally in the finished product, we would want the
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dog to continue to hold that object in their mouth until you cue them to drop it or you cue them
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to put it in your hand. It depends on if this is an obedient retrieve or some other kind of retrieve.
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So yeah, we want to take that away. And I will actually go so far as to not even if what I want is a
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faster, maybe faster return or faster pickup. I won't even let the dog come all the way to me. When
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I say I won't let them, I mean, I'm going to mark and I will deliberately interrupt the return
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with a dumbbell by throwing food or throwing a toy if I'm training with a toy. So I'm not going to
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require him to sit there and hold it for, you know, one Mississippi to Mississippi. I'm not even
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going to let him get to me. If I want fast pickups, I want him spitting that dumbbell out. I want him
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barely to have contact with his little tongue and he's spitting it for the treat. If he's coming back
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to me, I'm clicking and then chucking a treat so that he spits the dumbbell and runs after the treat.
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That gets a lot of speed going really, really quickly. So more you can reduce duration, not just in
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the hold, but also the how long is he carrying it, the faster he's going to go back and pick a backup
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and the faster he's going to come back with it. If you are working on a cue response, so this is
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more focused on latency at this point. You want your dog to respond instantly on cue to go to the
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mat, then you would want to remove any requirement for how long they stay on the mat. Just isolate the
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going to the mat. Don't require them to stay on the mat. We can build that in and I have thoughts
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on that. But for the moment, you want to make your behavior like it's made out of rubber.
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You know, like, what was that movie? Flubber? Like make the behavior bounce. If you're working on,
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you want a really fast sit, bounce your dog out of the sit. So reward out of position. Yes, but also
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reward quickly out of position so that your dogs, but doesn't have a chance. Like it doesn't even make
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a print on the ground. They're right back up. They have no chance to settle. Rewarding out of position
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in this way is also going to tend to keep your dogs muscles more higher tone. Like you're going to
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have more muscle tension in those action muscles. Because if they're popping right back out of the
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sit as soon as they touch it, they're going to keep those muscles engaged and like slightly
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contracted, which means they're going to be in position to do a faster sit again after they
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swallow the treat. Right. So you're keeping more engaged muscles. You're taking up the slack.
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Is it the term that they it's how they'll describe it sometimes in human sports? I'm guessing it has
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to apply in dogs as well. They're already like, they're already taking up the slack in that muscle,
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which means they're already more like tension like a spring and they can explode into the next
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behavior. So rewarding out of position where relevant so that behavior is very bouncy bouncing and
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bouncing out faster behaviors. Okay. Another thing for latency, think about your starting position.
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So yes, the position you're in, but for this, think about how you're setting your dog up
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in whatever position they're going to be. Like how are they lined up what direction are they
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facing? How are they angled? Where's their weight shifted when you're going to give the cue or when
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it's their turn to offer that behavior? So that's the starting position. And if you want really
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short latency, set up your stug in the starting position so that they can't help but fall into the
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behavior. Like think about like bouncing an egg on your counter or something, right? Like so if you
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just let go, the dogs are just falling into the behavior. So if you want fast downs again, you might
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lure your dog so that they are just almost down. They're in like a slightly awkward kind of hovering
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position. And then if you release the treat right there, close your fingers to cue them, make it
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clear that it's their turn to offer. If everything else were to stay the same, Gravy's going to suck your
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dog back down to the ground and you're going to get a really quick response. They don't have to arrange
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anything. They're already there. Their feet are already where they need to be. All they have to do
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is nothing and they're going to hit the deck. I love using this when I'm trying to reduce latency.
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I'll use this a lot to reduce latency by luring a dog right up onto the edge of a prop or so they're
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slightly out of balance and the action that they would take to rebalance themselves is the
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behavior that I want or on the is already on the path to the behavior that I want. So if I want
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my dog to give me a fast response on a send a target of the same sending my dog to a pot target,
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maybe it's for a send away or a go out. And right now it's really slow and I'd like to go a lot
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faster. Okay, so applying some of these principles, I'm going to make sure that I reduce any
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duration in the behavior. So I'm not going to have them stand on that pod target or stay out there
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that's going to tend to create slower behaviors. I'm going to reduce any delay to accessing the
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reinforcement that I can that I've control over. So I'm not going to walk out and hand it to him.
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I'm either going to throw it or maybe I'll have something stationed out there. I'll have a buddy
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or I'll use, you know, treat dispenser of some kind. I'll also reduce the distance by quite a lot
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so that it doesn't cost the dog as much to go out there. Now there's a sweet spot, especially if
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we're talking about like big dogs because big dogs need some runway to get up to speed and they
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also need some runway to slow down. So this part's a little bit counterintuitive. It's probably
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true for all dogs, but it comes up more with with bigger dogs. So, you know, my German shepherds,
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my daines, my mastiffs and similar dogs who don't corner particularly well. There's too far,
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you know, if you're too far away, you're going to get an amble out there. And if it's too close,
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then there's no point and you're going to get an amble out there. Really, it's too expensive. It's too
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expensive to accelerate the slam on the brakes that quickly. So I'll often experiment and see like,
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how many steps away is the sweet spot for this particular dog? And I'll think about
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how am I delivering that reinforcer so that my dog's not having to do, in this case, do a sharp
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change direction to access it. For some dogs, I like that sharp direction change. It gives me
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a sharper behavior. It depends on the dog. It depends on the specifics of the application.
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But in this case, it's a medium sized dog and I'm working on the fast response soupa target.
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The other thing that I will like to do here with that starting position is I'll lure the dog.
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We're very close at this point, but I'm luring the dog so that his weight is shifted way to one
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side. And when I let go and he starts to readjust his feet to just to stand more normally,
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the pot targets right there and he, boom, he steps on it. Can't help a step on it.
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That's your latency. I love building a behavior from that. That's one of my favorite tricks to
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build a quick behavior from the very beginning. And then we can increment distance from there.
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So that's sort of a back-chaining type of approach, which you know I love doing.
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To get the behavior from the front, one of the things you'll hear me say a lot is to mark the
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initiation of the behavior. This is probably the biggest thing if you're trying to reduce latency
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on a behavior, trying to get a faster response to, you know, you say down, you want your dog to start
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laying down as quickly as possible. Mark the thought. Like mark what you can see in your dog
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when they're registering that you have given a cue. Like when you see the change in their eyes
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or the way their ears flip and you can see them making a change to what the behaviors that
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they're currently, the weight shift, maybe their head starts to go down. Mark that. It's so much
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earlier than you think. And I know that's kind of scary because you think, well, if I said down and
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mark when my dog just starts to drop their head, then I'm going to lose the down. He'll stop laying
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down. Well, if that's the only thing you did in the world, yeah, that's probably true. Like absolutely,
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if you always mark, especially if you're rewarding out of position, if you always marked when your dog
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dropped their head when you said down and then you threw a treat in front of your dog and they
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popped up to go get it, then the behavior you would eventually shape is probably going to be
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something like a head dip. Well, that's not a down. Fortunately, speed is just one, it's in latency.
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There are just that's just one slice of your whole big picture training plan. You are free to
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mark that initiation of the behavior. You're even free to reward out of position. But then mix that
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in or like use that as one ingredient and then in a separate ingredient, you let the dog complete
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the behavior or even, oh, even better. This is actually what I do very often. I'll do this
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marking the initiation of the behavior. And then even in the same session, maybe do that for a
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couple of reps and then same session or maybe a different session. I'll use that more back
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changing strategy. So I'll pull them into a starting position that's almost the end of the behavior.
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It's like the last note in the song. So I'm going to mark the first note and then also the last note
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and then getting the stuff in between is actually not that hard, especially when you do them next
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to each other. You're going to very easily be able to squish those things together and make
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a little Oreo sandwich cookie of behavior. And then finally, and this is the last kind of tip that
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I wanted to leave you with. But I wanted to give you something that you could use to integrate some
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of these little kind of separate elements, right? So you're working on your Oreo. You've got like
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the one cookie piece and you got the other cookie piece and like what do you do to get the icing?
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All right. So as you're starting to introduce new elements, so let's say you're sending the dog
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to the target and you want them to sit. Maybe you're saying to a platform and you want them to turn
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and sit on the platform. Well, you can know all things that we just talked about and then introduce
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the new element. So maybe the sit component, you might introduce that between the click and the treat.
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So this is this little hack, this little training hack. It could be his whole own episode, which again,
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I don't know. Let me know what you guys want to hear about. And I can clearly ramble about a lot of
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things. But if I want the real focus of my session is getting the fast send to the platform.
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I'm still going to have distance quite short. But I want to go ahead and introduce the idea that
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there will be a sit that gets there. There will be a sit when you get to the platform like as part
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of the game. But I want to do it in a way that doesn't decrease their confidence or decrease their
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speed and going to the platform. I'll mark the initiation. So I'll mark that first paw landing on
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the platform and then my treat delivery. So I'm going to introduce the sit between the click and the
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treat. So I'm going to click when the dog's paw lands on the platform and then I'm going to take
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that treat and deliver it in such a way that it lures the dog up into a sit. They get to swallow
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that treat and then maybe I toss another one or I lure the dog off into a new starting position.
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And we start again. I love using this for fast setups in heel. So this is a behavior that if you
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are not careful and you're doing training the way that most of us just tend to just left
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our own devices, which is often a little bit sloppy all of us or this way. Once we have taught the
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doctor find heel and we have a food enough for our purposes find heel position or get to heel
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position. We then tend to for a long time like the career of our dog in training. We tend to call
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the dog to heel in order to then do something else like call them to heel so that you can throw the
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devil call them to heel so you can send them over the jump or send them to the the gutter call them
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to heel so that you can leave them on a stay and then call to heel tends to predict you're
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going to have to do something that's hard or I'm going to walk away from you. And so the
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the behavior of coming to heel position finding heel position starts to get slow and it
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starts to get kind of a weighty and it starts to get kind of icky. Which that makes sense. If
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every time you're like, oh, we need to talk like, oh, I don't want to. Like, could I take my time
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responding to this? Maybe something that bad, but it's a really common pattern. And so one of the
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ways that we can prevent this, that I include in training to either fix it, if we've already done
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it or get a faster response in the first place or prevent it, right, is one, marking the initiation.
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So once the dog has, there's so many components, so many exercises that we put into giving the dog
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a complete understanding of like where heel position is and how to get there, like how do
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their body to find their? I did not actually plan this, but that is that those are the things that
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will be working on in the 21 day healing challenge. What was I going with that? Right. But so to get
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the speed and to keep the speed, we'll very often click as the dog is just first like headed down
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the shoot. And that might look a little different because different dogs have, you're just different
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stylistic ways that they move themselves towards heel position. But that very first movement,
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usually it's that first lateral weight shift. If we're talking about less sighted healing,
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that first lateral weight shift in the counterclockwise position. So they start shifting their weight
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to their right, which would be, depending on where they're facing. But anyways, that first weight
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shift, capture that with the click and then deliver the treat in heel position, deliver the treat
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to paraphrase Alex Krillin, where the perfect dog would be. And so we've marked that first movement
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on that counterclockwise pivot action gets captured with the timing of our vent marker, the timing
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of the click. But then what happens between the click and the treat is the dog going the rest of
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the way into heel position. I love this because it's really the best of both worlds. You're not
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sacrificing a full pivot into heel. That's already an expensive behavior. It is very easy to break.
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It's hard to train in the first place. It's not hard to teach. Obviously we can do it. I can help
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you. But it's not free. We have to put a lot into it. It's easy to screw up. And then it's easy to
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break it once you've already got it. So we put a lot of effort into getting it strong in the first
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place and preserving it. But the the more duration we require the dog to be in the
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illusion once they get there, we're going to see increase in latency. So slower response time.
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The harder it is to get access to the reinforcer, especially if you're moving to putting your
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heel behaviors into a reinforcement strategy like a zin bowl or you're asking for more work,
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you're going to see increase in latency. So how can I keep all of that and keep the sharp
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response? Mark as they're coming in and then deliver the treat so that they complete the behavior.
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I use the same thing for down. I mark as the dog drops their head, deliver the treat,
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such that they complete the down and then may bounce them out of position. I still don't like to let
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moss grow on that stone. This is a metaphor. So I still like to bounce them out most of the time.
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Anyways, so introducing new elements between the click and the treat. This also applies by the way,
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it's one of my favorite strategies for introducing distractions, which I first learned from K-larts,
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which was a really cool, really cool trick adding a distraction between the click and the treat. But
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that a little bit applies because sometimes adding distractions slows behaviors down. And one way to
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preserve fast behavior while introducing a distraction is to introduce the between the click and
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the treat. So anyways, that was just a little extra like dessert mint for you to wrap this all up.
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So there you go. Very long two part, a big, a lot of me talking about making faster behaviors without
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frustrating your dog or having to withhold reinforcement or drive building because in this,
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in this heat in this economy, who has the energy for drive building, I do not, it is entirely too hot.
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So faster behaviors without breaking a sweat. That's the goal.
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All right, well, let me know what you think. I'd also love to know what else you want to talk about.
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You want me to talk about you want to talk about together. I'm very interested to know what
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behaviors specifically maybe you struggle with in terms of building speed. We could grab one of those
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and explore it. Talk about different training plans. You know how to find me or if you don't,
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you can find me on Facebook or Instagram if you find the post that goes with this episode.
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Adding a comment there is a good way for me to see it or you can always send me an email.
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Thanks for listening. If you liked this episode, well, you've got taste. And I hope you'll hit the
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subscribe button on your podcast app to make sure you don't miss the next episode. If I'd be
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subscribed, well, thank you. I really appreciate it. And there are still some ways that you could
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reinforce me if you were so inclined. You could always leave me a five star review on iTunes or
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Stitcher or wherever you happen to be listening to this podcast. And you can also check out and support
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the sponsors because they help make the podcast possible. You can find links and information about
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them and the other things that we've talked about in this episode by going to the show notes,
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which can be found at www.wonderpupstraining.com slash podcast. And while you're there,
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you could also pick up a free PDF training template to help you plan your training sessions.
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There's also some other articles and previous podcasts and that's the thing that you could always
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find if you were interested. So until next time, happy training.
Topics Covered
positive reinforcement training
dog behavior
latency in dog training
building fast behaviors
dog training techniques
efficient dog training
clear reinforcement delivery
training mechanics
dog training strategies
confidence in dog training
rapid reinforcement access
shaping dog behaviors
treat delivery methods
dog obedience training
online dog training program