Lifestyle
412 Plant Frost Protection Tips
In this episode of Garden Basics, retired horticultural professor Debbie Flower shares essential tips for protecting your plants from frost and freeze as temperatures drop. Learn effective strategies ...
412 Plant Frost Protection Tips
Lifestyle •
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Interactive Transcript
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It's October and it's starting to get a little chillier in the morning.
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Maybe freezing temperatures will be a reality where you live at some point this month or next.
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Today, America's favorite retired college horticultural professor, Debbie Flower,
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has tips for protecting in-ground plants as well as potted plants. We cover frost and freeze
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protection strategies, covering relocation, watering, mulching, frostcloth alternatives,
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and perhaps you might decide to move those plants indoors,
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tips for managing indoor conditions for plant health through the winter.
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It's episode 412, frost protection tips for your plants.
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We're podcasting from Barking Dog Studios here in the beautiful La Buta La Jungle in suburban
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purgatory. It's the garden basics with farmer-fried podcast. Let's go.
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We're at that time of year where if you're growing any plants that, well,
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may need some protection in the winter time, you may be wanting to move them indoors.
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Citrus is a great example. People growing citrus outside of USDA zone 9, if you're in zones 8 or
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7 or below and you have a citrus tree in a pot, you might want to bring it indoors for the winter.
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But can you leave it in the garage? Where do you put it in the house? How do you take care of it?
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How do you take care of any plants that you're over-wintering indoors? It could be
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sensitive house plants that are outdoors in the summertime that you're bringing back in.
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It could be a succulent collection. You want to give some protection to. There's a lot of variables
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when it comes to over-wintering plants. A lot of options available.
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Here running the option play for us is our favorite quarterback, America's favorite retired college,
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Horticultural Professor Debbie Flower is here. You mentioned that you now are in the process of
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over-wintering things. I am. Yes. I always think I'm not going to have plants in pots outside.
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I'm going to plant them all. They're all going to get in the ground and get established and do well.
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I never reach that point. I always have a whole collection of stuff in pots outside.
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Some of it can stay over-winter and some of it needs a little more protection than that.
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In a lot of cases, at least here in USDA zone 9 for sensitive plants, sometimes all you need to do
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is move them if they're in a pot closer to the house when very cold weather is expected,
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like on the south or west side, especially if there's a reflective, hard surface beneath it.
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Sun will warm up during the day. We get very bright sunny days in winter and that reflected heat will
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last a while over the winter. We can do things like group them together so that they insulate each
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other. We can put things around the pot, like mulch of some sort, get a bell of straw and
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spread that around the pot to insulate a little bit to keep it from changing temperature.
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We can't prevent it from getting cold. Mulching around a pot will not prevent it from getting cold,
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but it will prevent it from getting water in it and then freezing overnight. If you go through
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that process, water and freezing, water and freezing, eventually it pushes the plant out of the pot.
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That's not good. No, that's not good. All right, well, let's take this one step at a time. Maybe
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people have sensitive plants that are in really big pots and they don't look forward the idea.
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Moving it closer to the house or even moving it indoors, and actually, I think the first line of
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defense in over-wintering a plant has offered it protection in its place and that could be as simple
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as a frost cloth. A frost cloth, right. If you're going to use a frost cloth, you can purchase them
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at your local garden center and you want to drape it over the plant completely and all the way to the
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ground. What it's going to do is trap the heat that leaves the ground and rises up above the plant
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at night. If you have a frost cloth over, it's like having a porch roof, it will trap that heat,
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but you want it all the way around the plant and all the way down to touching whatever the plant is
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sitting on. Over the pot down to the sidewalk or the patio or the deck, if it's a deck, that's an
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unfortunate because you're still going to get some air movement around that and the heat could go
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away, but you're still going to provide it some protection. In addition to that, then you could add
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light bulbs. Light bulbs give off heat. If not LEDs, they don't give off a lot of heat. But all
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fashion Christmas lights, you've talked about this and something my dad used to call the trouble light,
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which was on the end of an orange extension cord and it had a little cage over it so that when you're
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working somewhere in the attic or basement or whatever, it doesn't and you drop stuff, it doesn't
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break the light bulb with an incandescent bulb in there. So save those incandescent bulbs. They're
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going to get their hard to find in stores these days, but save the ones you have for that purpose.
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But they give off heat. They give off heat and so that heat under the frost cloth will collect and
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prevent the plant from freezing. You're only going to buy a few few degrees of protection,
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but a few degrees may be all you need. When we were living in the country, there was one winter where
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it got abominably cold from like a week or so in December to the point where pipes and addics
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were burst. And our neighbor crossed the street out there in the country had a well. We all had
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a well and he had one of those shop lights focused right on the pipe that came out of the well
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that goes back into the ground and into his house. So I guess he was out of insulating rap for that
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pipe. So he threw a blanket over it along with the shop light and did he save his plumbing?
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I think so. I think everybody suffered some in that freeze. I lost a lemon in that.
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It was in the ground lemon and it died back to the ground and I just waited and it regrouped.
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But yeah, it was in a corner of a block fence. So it has some protection.
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If you don't have a frost cloth, what are the pros and cons of using a blanket?
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Well, it needs to be lightweight. I've used sheets and they get wet over when overnight because
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you can have dew and they get heavy and so they can damage the plant unless you prop them up.
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So ideally you put a maybe a tomato cage around the plant or you put a whole series of steaks
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tall well anchored steaks around the plant and hold that blanket up over the plant or sheet.
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I have these sheets as well. So it's not resting on the leaves of the plant.
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Right. And especially if it happened to rain or there was a heavy do or the sprinklers headed,
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that would be a lot of extra weight. Yes. Right. You do not want to use plastic.
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Why is that? It any sun gets through. You don't get out there and as soon as the sun comes up to
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take it off, it will burn. It will get so hot inside there that the plant will burn. If it gets
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icy, it can freeze to the plant. It doesn't allow air to move outside inside. You do not want to use
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plastic. So if you're using plastic, I've talked to people who will use a frost cloth, but then they
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put plastic on the outside, thinking that's an extra layer of protection. Have they been successful?
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You know, if it works for you, fine, but keep it in mind. Right. Right. I would not do that. It's a
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creating a greenhouse, but without ventilation, all greenhouses should have 25% of their roof area
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open for ventilation. And that's hard to find in a small greenhouse, but that's the rule of thumb.
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And that's so that you do have some airflow and you don't build up moisture. You could cause mold
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and fungus to grow on that plant. I would not use plastic at all. And good point mentioning
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take it off when the sun comes out the next day. Yes. Now what about for frost cloth?
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Should you remove the frost cloth after the threat of freezing temperatures?
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Frost cloth is not as critical. Frost cloth breathes. So the plant can get the air at needs,
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it can get rid of the air, it expels out of its leaves. However, it does reduce the amount of
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light that the plant gets. Although typically there's not a lot going on and metabolically,
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biologically in the plant during the winter, bite levels are much lower than they were in the summer
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temperatures are so low that plants don't do a lot below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. So it's not as critical.
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We have had active discussions about whether to mulch in ground plants in the threat of a
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frost or a freeze, especially for citrus plants. And frankly, in an urban situation,
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just leave the mulch. Now if you have an orchard of citrus trees, you may want to rake back
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that mulch in order for the soil to heat up during the day and release it at night.
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Yeah, the thing that holds heat in soil is moisture. If you have very sandy soil,
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you may want to mulch with organic matter because that will hold more moisture than your sandy
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soil will. If you have long, good gardening soil, if you have clay, then yes, you want the sun to
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hit that soil so that the moisture in the soil can absorb the heat. However, if you have hard
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frosts, if it gets below 32 at night, I would not remove the mulch because that's when you have
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the freezing thawing cycle and that can ice is bigger than water. So you have water on the plant
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during the day and then at night, it gets really cold and that water freezes and it takes up more
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space and it can push the plant right out of the ground. What is the difference between a frost,
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a freeze and a hard freeze? A frost is when you get ice crystals on plant parts. The air temperature
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gets to about 32 degrees and you just get some ice crystals. Freeze is when you get,
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it gets a little colder than that between 28 and 32 and a hard freeze is 28 degrees or below.
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And the hard freeze is the one that you worry about. Hard freeze is the one that can kill a citrus
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tree because it actually affects the cambium layer. There's not enough self-insolation in that
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chunk. Yeah. And frost cloth might offer you what two degrees, four degrees of protection if
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it's really thick frost cloth. Right. Yes. Frost cloth does come in gradations, thicknesses,
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and will protect for different amounts of cold. Now, if the upcoming freeze or frost is coming
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as a surprise to you and it's like four o'clock in the afternoon, you're thinking, what am I going to
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do now? Maybe watering the plant might help. Yes. But you can either water the soil
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but it needs to have it. That water needs to have enough exposure to the sunlight to absorb heat,
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what like we were talking about with removing the mulch. Or, and this is done in vineyards,
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you turn on the water when the temperature gets below 32 degrees and you're spraying the top of
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the plant, but you have to leave that water on until the temperature rises again above 32 degrees.
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What that does is creates a layer of ice around the plant. The water is warmer than 32 if it
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wasn't, it wouldn't flow and it lands on the plant and it freezes and it creates at, it stays at
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32 degrees. But you have to keep adding the water for it to stay at 32 degrees. Otherwise,
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the ice can become colder. I would think that would be a very gentle application of water,
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like almost from some sort of misting system. No, they use, I have seen it in orchards and they
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just use a spray irrigation system and it's, it's a, it seems like a lot of water. Exactly. I was
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going to say it's kind of a horrible waste of water, especially when we, we're sensitive to it
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because we live in such a dry environment, but other places have more water to spare.
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Real rich citrus owners will hire some guy to fly over in a helicopter. Yes, they will. Yes,
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and that's because at night the ground loses heat and it rises. It's colder above it and
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heat rises. And so the heat in the ground, the soil, the patio, whatever it's in starts to rise and
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it gets above the plant. And so after several hours of this, it's colder down at the ground than
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it is at helicopter level. And so the helicopter is brought in and it just hovers over the orchard and
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it pushes the air down. It pushes the warm air down. But if your name isn't Elon, you probably
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can't afford to have a helicopter flying overhead at night. And you know, if your neighbors
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are loving it, it's noisy. Another strategy too for protecting in ground plants from a frost or
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a freeze is skirting the tree, removing those branches that are touching the ground and allowing
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that heat to get further up into the canopy. I hadn't heard of that one. I'm a big fan of
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keeping the canopies of plants fairly open to allow air and beneficial insects to get into the
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canopy and do their job. So air flow is impeded by branches with lots of leaves on them.
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Right. And we've talked to in the past about those lower branches if they're touching the ground,
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they could be getting infected by disease from splashing soil, disease spores, or the facts that
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ants and rats use them as a way to get us into the tree when it's time. And you may want to
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avoid that. Another option too if you've got plants and containers is to have a greenhouse.
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Yes, which is something I have and I take them in there and you have a heater in there?
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No, but the greenhouse has a, it doesn't have the 25% venting that I would really like it to have
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has one vent that moves automatically based on temperature. So that closes in the winter and I
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close the door and and that's it. I have a fan just because I believe in fans in plants moving
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and in a greenhouse you have to have a fan to do that. So I just close it up and hope for the best.
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I have a heater in mine. It's 110. So it just plugs into a regular outlet. It has a fan built into it.
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It's meant for greenhouses and with a thermostat. So if I want the indoor temperature to not fall
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below a certain level and usually depends on what I'm growing in there, but it's usually
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keeping it above 50 degrees for a lot of things. I mean, if I had tropical plants it might be 60 or
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60 or 5 degrees. Yeah, tropical plants don't obey the 45 degrees. Yeah, they don't. So that is one
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option is it's doing that. All right. So if you don't have the greenhouse, but you have a lot of
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potted plants and you say, now we're just going to move them indoors. Do you move them indoors or do
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you move them inside a shed or a garage? Well, those are all options. First, you want to look at the plant
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and if it's been outside for the whole growing season, there's debris on top of the soil in the plant.
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There's maybe pests on the plant. There may be pests in the drain holes below the plant. So you
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want to inspect the whole thing and clean out the extra debris. Check the drain holes where
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we are, slugs are a problem and they go in there during the day because it's nice and Winston dark
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that's a nice environment for them. So you want to check for those things. Could knock the plant out
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of the pot. I've done that and found slug eggs and so you want to get rid of those. Get in the media.
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In that case, you know, you may not want to keep the plant. Then when you bring it in, you have a
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choice. Bringing it in is going to bring it into an environment of lower light, whether it's your
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house or a shed with a window or without a window and a garage. It's going to be a lower light
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than you got outside. So the plant is going to go into a stage of quiescence. It's just going to
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sit still. Quiescence meaning it's not going to grow. It's not going to do much of anything. You're
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really just preventing it from dying. Is it dormancy? Quiescence is before dormancy.
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dormancy is not something we can force on a plant. The plant will get into dormancy based on
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environmental cues like day length and and temperature and we can't cutting off leaves. We
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cannot force a rose for instance into dormancy by taking its leaves off. We have we do not have
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that power. The plant responds in a hormonal way to changes in day length and changes in temperature.
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But we can take the leaves off that have fungus on them, that have aphids on them, that have other
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diseases or pests on them and when we bring it indoors into this lower level of light it will lose
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more leaps. So be prepared for that. You want to isolate the plants from any other plant you have
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in your house because hopefully you got everything off of it, everything bad and nasty but maybe
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you didn't and you don't want that to spread to your other plants. Ideally you have a place that
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does have some sun coming in from a window a south facing window would be great and you just can
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collect your plants there. I would put them on something an old tablecloth, old sheet, something
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that where the leaves that decline over time will fall and you have a way to collect them.
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I'm surprised the local rosariants aren't out picketing us right now. I know they believe that
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they can force a plant into dormancy. I'm sorry but you can't. So are you wasting your time
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stripping all the leaves off of a rose bush in December thinking you're going to put it to sleep?
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Well you're not going to put it to sleep. That's just not going to work. You are
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however removing potential sort of roses get a lot of pest problems, a lot of fungus.
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You could remove those sources of reinvestation by doing that. You would also need to
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rake up what has fallen on the ground, what has already fallen off and landed on the ground because
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that's a source of infestation to especially a fungus. And fungus is our number one disease problem
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in plants in general. I guess with roses too you could do like they do back east and just
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cover them in straw. Right and they do that. They cut them way back and cover them sometimes
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they dig them up and lay them down and bury them to prevent them from freezing and they're covering
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them with mulch so that they don't heave and the heaving is what I was talking about with the ice
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and the water going back and forth ice water, ice water, ice water, ice water, ice and eventually
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it pushes the plant out of the ground. When you've got exposed roots they're going to die.
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Roots are incredibly sensitive to freezing. They are more sensitive than any other part of the plant
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except maybe an open flower. I can only think of one year where I noticed the ground was frozen here
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and it was that winter where pipes were bursting in people's attics and I was amazed that
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they couldn't put a shovel into the soil and that's commonplace in most of the
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areas. Yes, places I grew up, places I've lived to be for, places my sons lived. Yes, I'm dealt with
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that. So we don't usually have to worry about that thawing and heaving issue. We don't. Right.
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Too much. The other thing you use a mulch for around rose canes is to prevent them from drying out.
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Cold air is very, very dry. It cannot hold as much moisture as warmer air. The air in winter
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is very cold. I can remember moving from New Jersey to Arizona in January and going outside and
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waiting for my nose hairs to freeze to dry up in the freeze and it just wasn't happening. I
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just couldn't understand it. Different sensations in very cold places. You're containing the moisture.
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So when the wind comes at least some of the canes, some portion of the canes are protected and
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they do not dry out. Wow. I did a little trip to the nursery this past week, gawking at the
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overpriced pumpkins on display. $15. That all kinds. I saw them but I didn't buy them.
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No, I know. But the other thing that they had that they had potted up and I found this very
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interesting. They looked to be about five gallon containers. We're merigolds and pepper plants.
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And I've been told by various nursery people that they are selling a lot of pepper plants these days.
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This time of year, because people are going to overwinter them. So what tips would you have for
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somebody who's buying a pepper plant and is going to overwinter them to grow them next year as well?
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From what I understand, obviously they're not going to be producing much while they're indoors.
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Right. But you at least get a second season out of it. Although some pepperfician
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autos tell me that the second year's crop isn't as good as the first. But if you want to try,
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go ahead. Yeah. I think it's a lot of work for very little reward. Well, you don't know pepper heads.
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You're right. I'm not a great pepper grower. In Arizona, I had in the ground tomatoes and
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peppers. And they did overwinter. And I had crops the next year. But in the ground, you have much
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more root zone. If I were going to overwinter a pepper in a container, I would plan to put it in
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the ground or in a much bigger pot come spring and overwinter, I would want it to be, you want it
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to be healthy. So you're going to want it in a greenhouse or in a place or using very high quality
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artificial lighting and a fan to keep it moving and make sure you water. When you bring plants in the
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house, typically their rate of growth slows down and you want to water them less often. But winter
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houses are heated and they are heated with often forced air. And that's a very dry air. It's
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heating air that would be cold outside that's already dry. So it's dry, warm air. And so the plants
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lose a lot of water and so you have to water them more often. So you really got to watch that. You
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want to make sure you water correctly. So you're not overwatering and causing the pepper to rot.
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But you're watering enough that the pepper doesn't die. Yeah, I mean, you're not trying to actively
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get peppers to grow to the winter. You're just getting them to sit. What was that word you use?
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Chiascence? Chiascence, yes. One of the people, I, interior skapers, I know, interior skapers being
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people who tend plants inside buildings like inside big malls, inside the lawyers office, inside
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the bank, whatever, you know, where plants are said all you're trying to do is reduce the rate of
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dying. I would think one way, maybe to counteract the dry forced air problem would be to have that
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pot resting in another pot that has gravel on the bottom and your pot is resting in that tray
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that has the gravel in it. And there's water in the tray that raised the humidity. Yes, yes,
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yes, the tray. It's called a humidity tray. It needs to be substantially bigger than the pot
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because humidity is just going to rise up around the plant. And you want the pepper pot standing
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on top of the gravel, not nestled into it because you don't, that would create too much moisture
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at the bottom of the pot. And you're going to have to fill it real regularly. So you could try with
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big fan of a litter cat litter boxes, plastic cat litter boxes and get some, you want the gravel to
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be fairly large and round because then it won't nestle together too much and it'll leave spaces
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for water. And then you fill it with water and the water is going to come up around the plant and
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help to keep it moist. But you're going to have to check that daily and maybe fill it daily,
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depending on how deep it is and how dry your air is. You have no financial interest in kitty litter boxes.
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Just true. I just have had cats all my life. And so it's like, oh, I know what I can do with that.
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We didn't talk about protecting outdoor plants and nurseries would like to sell you a bottle
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of cloud cover or whatever that anti-transparent stuff is. Anti-transparent, yes. So that's a spray
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that you put on the plant. You need to put it on all surfaces, top, back, and there are directions
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on the pot. And it's kind of a, I don't know exactly what it's made of. When I started graduate
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school at UC Davis Department of Agriculture, we did an experiment with cloud cover and sprayed
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the plants. And then we measured their ability to let moisture and air out of the back of the leaf.
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So that plants have storm on the backs of the leaves, typically the back, some plants. It's the top.
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And they open them during the day to allow air into the plants. They can do photosynthesis because
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you need air to do photosynthesis. And then they close them when they run out of moisture. But
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it's where air and moisture move in and out of the plant. And when we, there are ways to test
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what gases are coming out of those leaves. And we did that with the cloud cover. There was excess
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movement because it created an osmotic difference. And so the plant perceived a higher concentration
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in the leaf and tried to push the air out and push the water out. And that's what you're trying to
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preserve with the cloud cover. So if you did excess spray, that stopped, but clogged up the
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stoma and the plant couldn't do anything. I think in some of those protecting products that you
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spray on a plant, the active ingredient, if you want to call it an active ingredient, is pine
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resin. Sticky, sticky, sticky. And yeah, it would suffocate the plant. Right. It just closes the
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stomach. If it's used heavy enough, if it's used, we did it according to directions on the label.
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And it just increased the loss of water out of the stoma.
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Read and follow all label directions as we're fond of saying. And it's very, very true.
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All right. Going back to moving plants in the house for protecting your crops during the winter time,
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your plants succulents. Maybe you have some sensitive tropical succulents. Maybe you have some
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tropical plants that are in movable containers that you can bring indoors. You made a very good
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point earlier about clean them off. Real good. Don't clean them off and isolate them at first.
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So you don't want a white fly infestation in your house. Right. Right. When people say,
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what can I go to made us in the house? Or that's what you're going to get is a white fly infestation.
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But I mean, if you have enough yellow sticky traps, it's very decorative ornament. Right.
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There you go. You probably couldn't if you had enough light. I mean, obviously there are people
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growing guestables indoors. Yes. And flowering plants too if they have enough light.
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Probably primarily hydroponically, not in soil. And it's a chemically balanced liquid media that moves
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and is aerated and is clean. And it's you have to dedicate yourself to that if that's what you want to do.
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Yes. Speaking of dedication, how long can you leave the plants in the house or should you move
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them back outside when the threat of frost or freeze is gone, even if it is just for eight hours or so?
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I wouldn't move them in and out because the leaves that form in sun are sun leaves. And when they're
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moved indoors, the plant will lose them. They because they're inefficient. They have too many
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cells that the plant has to maintain with and it doesn't have enough light to do that. And then it
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will make new leaves and they're shade leaves. And when you move them out into greater light, they
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will burn and they will fall off. So I wouldn't move them in and out. I would keep them indoors until
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temperatures are such have settled outdoors at the rate that the plant will survive.
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But eventually they do have to go back outside. Well, or you can keep them in. You can adapt them
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to staying in, but you know, like succulents, you can keep them in. Succulents really dislike cold
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wet, by the way. So if you have them outside and you're protecting them or they're, they seem to be
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hardy enough that they can stay outside. Don't overwater them in winter. Don't let them sit in water.
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Very good point because we have, you know, that's a common rule of thumb among gardeners that
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one of the primary methods of protecting an in ground plant from the effects of a freeze is to
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water it the day before. But with succulents, actually that is a negative. Yes. Succulents aren't
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exception. They can take it dry. Yes. They prefer a dry. They need some oxygen around their roots and
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around the base of their stem. Then the good news is winter will pass, spring will come and we
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can all live happily ever after. Hopefully yes. Yes. With your plants outside where they belong.
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And not taking up your spare bedroom or wherever. Yep. Yeah. All right. Debbie Flower.
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America's favorite retired college horticultural professor with the advice on winterizing your
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plants and keeping them safe when the weather gets a little too chilly. Thank you, Debbie. You're welcome,
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Fred. Well, it's time to wrap things up here. And truly, I mean wrap things up. This episode,
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number four, 12 is the last episode of the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast. It's time to move on.
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But the Garden Basics episodes will remain for a while at our homepage gardenbasics.net or wherever
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you get your podcasts, just in case you want to listen or download our advice over the years on a
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particular garden topic. And with over 400 episodes to choose from, I think we've covered the
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basics fairly thoroughly over the last five and a half years. Thank you so much for listening to
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the Garden Basics podcast and supporting us with your kind thoughts too. It's been fun. Well, now what?
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Well, the good news is the Beyond the Garden Basics newsletter and podcast will continue.
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It'll be coming out every Friday. The newsletter form allows me to offer up pictures of what we're
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talking about, along with links for more information about the topic. And if a podcast happens to appear
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in a newsletter edition, there'll be a transcript available. You can find the newsletter and podcast
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substac.com. That's gardenbasics.substac.com. And for the vast majority of your listeners who have been
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tuning into the show using Apple podcasts, you can find the Beyond the Garden Basics podcast there
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as well. And what you're going to be missing though is all the information, pictures and links
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that you can find at gardenbasics.substac.com. I hope you can download the Substac app.
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And because there will be no paid ads on the Beyond the Garden Basics newsletter and podcast,
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your financial support is encouraged and needed for that newsletter to continue. So when you go to
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Gardenbasics.substac.com, please become a paid subscriber. Free subscribers are welcome too,
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but you're going to get a shortened version of the newsletter in the podcast. Plus, if you are a
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paid subscriber, you'll have access to the entire library of past Beyond the Garden Basics
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Newsletters and podcasts of which now there are over 200 editions. By the way, paid subscribers
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also get to leave their thoughts and comments which are greatly appreciated. So it's time to move on.
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Hope to see you at the Beyond the Garden Basics newsletter and podcast in the future. You can
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either do an internet search for the link to Beyond the Garden Basics or visit us at substac.com.
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Again, thank you for your support and kind thoughts for all the past episodes of the Garden Basics
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with Farmer Fred Podcast.
Topics Covered
frost protection tips
over-wintering plants
indoor plant care
protecting in-ground plants
potted plant protection
frost cloth alternatives
mulching strategies
citrus tree care
hard freeze effects
plant health in winter
water and freeze cycles
insulating plants
garden tips for winter
indoor conditions for plants
frost cloth usage
plant relocation strategies