Health
The real science of weight loss with the US’s leading nutritional scientist
In this episode of Science Weekly, leading nutritional scientist Kevin Hall discusses the complexities of weight loss and the impact of modern food environments on our bodies. He explores the science ...
The real science of weight loss with the US’s leading nutritional scientist
Health •
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This is the Guardian.
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When Robert F. Kennedy Jr. was appointed as Donald Trump's health secretary,
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he came with promises to tackle the broken food system.
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We shouldn't be giving 60% of the kids in school
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process food that is making them sick.
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We shouldn't be spending 10% of this in half program on sugar drinks.
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And for one researcher at the forefront of nutrition science,
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this seemed like good news.
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The rhetoric is spot on on those topics, and that's one of the reasons we were excited to
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have the potential opportunity to expand on our research and provide answers to the questions
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that Americans deserve.
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Kevin Hall is admired by scientists around the world.
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His groundbreaking research at the U.S. National Institutes of Health
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involves getting volunteers into the lab and studying in minute detail
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how the modern food environment affects their bodies.
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But when his findings didn't fit the administration's narrative,
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he says they were downplayed.
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The top researcher for the National Institutes of Health
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shocked the scientific and medical communities this week by announcing his early retirement
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and blaming it on censorship from RFK Jr.'s administration.
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The Department of Health and Human Services has rejected his claims of censorship.
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Now Kevin's on the outside continuing to follow the evidence.
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In his new book with journalist Julia Beliz called Food Intelligence,
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the science of how food, both nourishes and harms us,
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he interrogates everything from fat diets to glucose monitors and supplements.
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These kinds of hacks and trends of supplements and wearable devices and things like that
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have had limited capacity to change people's behavior over long periods of time.
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So today, what does Kevin Hall want us all to understand about diet, exercise, and weight?
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And what does he make of those now in charge of America's health?
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From the Guardian, I'm Ian Sample and this is Science Weekly.
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I wonder if you could take us back to some of the real basics, Kevin,
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in how we should think about the food we put into our bodies and the impact that has on our weight.
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And you talk in the book about this debate that scientists have been having about whether a calorie is
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a calorie essentially. Yeah, there's this idea that has a long history that what seemed to matter
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when it came to how much body fat we lose is the calories and the food that we eat.
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And it doesn't seem to matter whether or not those calories come from carbohydrates or fat,
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for example, as long as the number of calories was constant, the amount of body fat that you would
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lose would be similar. It turns out that we've done studies and others have done studies and it's
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very, very close to true. It's not quite true. There's very small deviations from that very basic
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rule of calorie swaps, but overall it's true. I think the misapplication of that knowledge has been
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the idea that, oh, well, then all we have to do is count calories in our diet and we will be able to
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predict how much weight should be gained or lost for every calorie change in our diets. And I think
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that what that misses the sort of calories in calories out idea when it comes to body weight regulation
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is it misses the physiological adaptations in both the number of calories the body burns through
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metabolism as well as how our appetite changes as we gain or lose weight. So you're saying that
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sort of our system doesn't stay steady while we're eating that metabolism changes the other
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things change that will affect how much weight we put on. Correct. Yes. So what happens in experiments
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when we bring people into the laboratory and cut calories in their diet is that, you know, within
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a few days we can see the number of calories that the body is burning go down and often goes down
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more than you'd expect just based on the fact that they're losing a little bit of weight and
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smaller people tend to burn fewer calories than larger people. More recently we've been able to
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detect that over more extended periods of time as people lose more and more weight their appetite
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increases above where they started at baseline so that if they were to relax their adherence to
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the diet they would tend to overeat calories and regain weight quite dramatically. And so it's the
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interaction between what I like to think of as two sort of parallel negative feedback circuits.
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One that decreases the number of calories the body is burning and one that is increasing our appetite
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that interact in this dynamic system to eventually determine how much weight we lose and where
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we'll end up plateauing at a lower weight. Can some of that be seen as the body really just wanted
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to keep things as they are that it wants to if it's on a diet it wants to go back to eating more
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food. That's correct. And in a given environment I think the fascinating thing is that the body is
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extremely resilient to shifts in body weight that what we find is that the body does react in a way
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to resist our efforts at weight loss and it requires a persistent lifestyle change and if people
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have the ability to do that in the face of a food environment for example that is acting against
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them then all the more power to them those are the rare examples.
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You were talking about how the body tends to resist weight loss but why does it not
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try and resist weight gain that has its own medical issues to come with it.
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Well in fact it does tend to resist weight gain. One of the things that we have learned also
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is that there have been experimental overfeeding studies in humans as well as in animal models
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and what you will see is that in those experimental models if you overfeed people more than they
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would like to eat their metabolism will speed up they will burn more calories than would be
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predicted based on the amount of weight that they'd gained and their hunger will drop quite
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dramatically so that when you remove the overfeeding period they will in fact eat very very few
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calories and lose weight and their metabolism will slow back down to a more normal rate.
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So we do have this system that seems to resist both weight gain and weight loss in a given environment
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and that's why we think that one of the most obvious explanations for why we might be seeing
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increased obesity prevalence is the slow steady shifts in the food environment that have given rise to
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what we see as an increased amount of this sort of defended body weight. A lot of people listening
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will be interested in what happens with exercise and weight loss and it's something we hear differing
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opinions on. I mean we know that exercise is great for our health but in weight loss terms a picture
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maybe isn't quite so clear what does the evidence say? Yeah the evidence for tying exercise to weight
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loss is quite interesting and a little bit disappointing especially for women it seems like when
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people do trials where they do supervised exercise so people are actually doing the exercise.
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For women it seems like they don't lose much weight at all on average again there's some people
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who lose weight and some others who actually end up gaining weight when they're doing this exercise
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program for men the situation is a little bit better but again the amounts of weight loss that we're
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seeing for quite robust amounts of exercise is often disappointing to people which is why I find it
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a little bit frustrating that people tie exercise to weight loss so prominently because I think people
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have this phenomenon of signing up for you know your New Year's resolution to join the gym and
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lose a little weight and they might be seeing all the benefits of exercise when it comes to metabolic
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health and functional capacity and the ability to live your life to a greater extent but because they
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don't see the scale budge very much they might end up giving up which I think is a big mistake
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especially given that it seems like where exercise has its sort of superstar qualities when it comes
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to weight loss is not in the weight loss itself but the ability to maintain the weight loss over
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long periods of time. So exercise may not help you shed the pounds but it may help you keep your
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weight healthy if you've already managed to lose weight is that right? Yeah that's right and I don't
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think there's any reason to not have exercise during the weight loss period just don't tie the
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amount of exercise that you're doing to the weight loss and don't be discouraged by the fact that
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it might not be seeming to correlate with how much weight you're losing from one week to the next.
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A lot of the messaging that we are exposed to from the diet industry I suppose we could call it
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pushes this idea that weight is something we have total sort of individual control over that it's
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all about motivation and willpower but in your book it's clear that it's more complex than that
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there's there's a whole load of other factors coming into play. Right I mean one of the first is
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genetics body size is highly heritable within a given environment somewhere between 40 and 70%
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of the variability and body size between people is due to our genes. Now it's not you know a handful
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of genes what we've now understand with obesity is that there's more than a thousand genes all
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playing very very tiny parts in determining in a given environment where we're sort of regulating
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our body weight. Most of those genes are genes that are acting in our brains and so we believe that
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many of those genes are acting in the control of food intake and the science seems to suggest
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that that's correct but I guess the question then is what can we do to kind of change our body size
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in an environment that is promoting obesity and so I think we have two options one we can start to
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interfere with the biology which we have had some success with in recent years with interventions
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like bariatric surgery as well as these new weight loss medications that target the GLP1 receptor
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and other receptors in the brain as well as being able to shift that food environment to one that
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is promoting not the ultra-processed foods so that they don't cause the ones who were most susceptible
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to the shifts in the food environment to beginning that weight in the first place.
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You mentioned ultra-processed foods Kevin and it's probably the area that you're best known for
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and you say in the book that this is a quote that they seem to reset whatever it is that
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used to help us regulate our body weight at lower levels but the actual mechanism of how they're
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doing that still seems to be elusive what is the research showing so far?
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Yeah so so far what we're trying to understand is two questions one what is it about those foods
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themselves that might cause excess calorie consumption and one of the things that we have focused in on
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is the fact that in the formulation of those foods on purpose one of the things that food scientists do
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is they try to eliminate as much of the water content of the foods as possible so that they'll
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have longer shelf life because water content in foods promotes bacterial growth and as a result of
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doing that what they end up doing is concentrating the calories and what we're finding is that that
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so-called energy density of the food is one of the main drivers by which ultra-processed foods
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seem to be causing people to overeat calories another aspect that we're really interested in is whether
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or not combinations of nutrients like combinations of high fat and high sugar or high fat and high salt
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or high carbs and high salt the so-called hyper-palatable combinations of foods that are not typically
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found in nature those formulations in ultra-process foods are potentially also driving excess calorie
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intake and we seem to find some evidence in our controlled feeding studies that both of those
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factors might be playing major roles and fairly recent work you've done showed that this is a pretty
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nuanced picture around some of these foods so I wonder if you could tell me about the study
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you did where you put people on these four different diets yeah so that that's an unpublished
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study that's some interim results that we presented last year and what we were able to show is that
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a very highly ultra-processed food environment as long as it didn't contain many of these
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hyper-palatable foods or didn't have very high calorie density didn't promote excess calorie
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consumption and in fact promoted very similar calorie consumption to a minimally processed diet that
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had no ultra-processed foods and so we sort of take that as you know encouraging news that we're
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beginning to target some of the mechanisms by which food environments that are rich in ultra-process
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foods typically cause excess calorie intake and if we can understand those mechanisms then we can
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start to give our policy-making friends the ammunition that they need to isolate you know what is
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it about these foods that we need to start to regulate or invent policies around.
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Ironically it was Kevin's work exploring these nuances around ultra-processed foods which brought
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on end to his career at the NIH where he'd worked for 21 years. A common narrative says that ultra-process
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foods are addictive and the same way drugs can be so Kevin wanted to understand whether this was
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true he believes that hyper-palatable UPFs can be addictive but is the mechanism the same.
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Would an ultra-processed milkshake cause the same large surge of dopamine in the brain that can
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happen with highly addictive drugs. Surprisingly what we found was we were unable to detect the
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significant dopamine increase in the brain after consuming the ultra-processed milkshakes high
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and fat and sugar. It doesn't mean that there wasn't any dopamine increase it's just not
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happening to the same extent as these highly addictive drugs. We wrote up a paper and it was
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coming out in a journal and it basically said yeah look these foods might be addictive in some
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people but they seem to be working slightly differently than these highly addictive drugs
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and we had a press release ready and we're ready to kind of tell the world about this discovery
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and we were told we weren't allowed to issue a press release in fact we weren't allowed to talk to
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reporters about this we were only allowed to submit answers to written questions from the reporters
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and in fact one of the reporters at the New York Times who wanted to interview us got a phone call
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from the communications department at Health and Human Services and said I was wondering whether
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or not she was really writing a piece about Robert F. Kennedy Jr. because the results of this study
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didn't match what he thought was happening with ultra-processed foods. So it was very sort of chilling
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that our science was being highlighted in this way and being deemed as not consistent with the
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beliefs of the current Health and Human Services secretary and when I ended up writing written
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responses to the journalist questions my responses were edited and downplayed the importance of
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the study saying it was very small and more or less should be ignored when in fact it was the
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largest study of its kind conducted and so that was the the genesis of me realizing that despite
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this research that we had hoped would be expanded upon that that was going to be held to a very
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high degree of public scrutiny by the political appointees at HHS when I tried to get some clarity
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on that I got no response for weeks so I made the decision that without that sort of assurance that
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you know I wasn't going to continue to experience meddling in the reporting of our science
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and in fact you know the reporting of future studies and maybe even the design of future studies
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I didn't want them meddling in those things I decided to take the early retirement option that
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was offered so do you think that they either wanted or would have been happier to see evidence of addiction
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oh yeah I think that's the problem is that they are very interested in science that seems to
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support their narrative and they're very interested in downplaying science that seems to not support
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their narrative and much the same way a trial lawyer might which is what Robert F. Kennedy Jr.'s
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background is and so my view is that oftentimes science doesn't fully support a narrative it often
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introduces more questions and complicates the narrative and my worry is that this administration
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is not interested in the science they think that they have the answer they think they have a compelling
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narrative and any science that seems to complicate that should be downplayed and ignored
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this can't be an easy decision to make to leave after that amount of time you know the lab you've got
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you know everything is is set up for you to do the work that you want to do you can get the
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grants and so on like that which all suggests that this is this is a major problem that this
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wasn't sort of a trivial thought in your side why is it so important yeah I mean I think that
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we have to stand up for our scientific integrity I think we've seen that this is not just isolated
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to me obviously I may have been one of the first ones to be vocal about it at the NIH but what we've
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seen is folks who maybe not have been in as high profile areas of science many of them have taken
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these options to leave the National Institutes of Health others didn't have those options available
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to them but it was very disappointing to leave I had joked with my wife about retirement many times
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that I did plan to never retire I love my job so much we had the ability to do what I thought was
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important science and make these kinds of advances and and ways that would be difficult to do elsewhere
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so it was a very very difficult decision I hope to one day to be able to return to government
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service and to be able to do this kind of research again if not at the NIH maybe back in my home
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country of Canada who knows we'll see what happens
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Kevin it can be difficult from the outside to really get a handle on what's happening
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in the US and you know for example on paper Robert F. Kennedy Jr looks like a promising health
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secretary to tackle some of the problems that you've outlined in the book I mean he has raised
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issues with the food industry I wonder whether you have any faith in the administration to
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to regulate where it's needed and to tackle the specific kinds of of problems that you're talking
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about yeah I mean that's one of the things that was really interesting and surprising to me was
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because the rhetoric is right when it comes to diet related chronic disease right but unfortunately
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I think what we've seen is that the actions are not matching the rhetoric practical programs for
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example the United States Department of Agriculture had programs that were supporting local farmers
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delivering fresh fruits and vegetables to school programs and other institutional settings
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and those programs were cut education programs on how to actually prepare healthful foods in
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convenient ways those programs were cut even the policy changes that have been put forward are
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you know really minor effects on our food system things like suggesting that Coca-Cola
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create a new line of products that have cane sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup in them
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not removing high fructose corn syrup from their products not that there's anything different
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from a scientific perspective between high fructose corn syrup and cane sugar
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these sorts of the count as maha wins are not likely to move the needle on public health when
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it comes to diet related chronic diseases and as a result they're going to explain this enormous
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amount of political capital which was earned by the grassroots folks in the make America healthy
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again movement to do things that are going to have a meaningless effect on public health
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Kevin thank you so much thanks for having me
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thanks again to Kevin Hall Kevin's book co-authored with journalist Julia Ballouze is called
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Food Intelligence the science of how food both nourishes and harms us to support the Guardian you
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can order your coffee via guardian bookshop.com and that's all from us today this episode was
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sound designed by Joel Cox an executive producer was Ellie Bury we'll be back on Thursday see you then
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this is the Guardian
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before you
Topics Covered
Robert F. Kennedy Jr.
broken food system
nutrition science
Kevin Hall
National Institutes of Health
Food Intelligence
calorie regulation
weight loss
ultra-processed foods
metabolism
exercise and weight loss
genetics and body size
diet industry myths
appetite regulation
food environment
hyper-palatable foods